Showing posts with label reduce home energy costs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label reduce home energy costs. Show all posts

Monday, 19 April 2010

Radiant Barriers - Let Space-Age Technology Lower Your Utility Bills and Increase Your Comfort

Radiant barriers are a relative newcomer to the area of residential insulation. All radiant barriers are based upon space age technology. In 1954 NASA developed this material which we now call a "space blanket". This "sheeting" covered with deposited aluminum helps reduce heat transfer, which is vital in the cold of space. The same technology used by our astronauts has been used in the construction industry for over 20 years and has been receiving more attention in recent years as alternate green building methods have been thrust into the spotlight. Radiant barriers work differently than all traditional forms of insulation.
The most commonly used insulation in the past, and is still frequently used today, has been fiberglass batting, loose-fill blown insulation, spray foam insulation and cellulose. It is possible to add a radiant barrier to an existing house and often recommended. All types of insulation are rated with an R-value, unlike radiant barriers. The R-value is how the manufacturers measure thermal resistance, meaning how well the insulation prevents heat from transferring through the insulation.
Radiant barriers are not assigned an R-value, but two different numbers. The first is an emissivity number. The second number refers to the thermal reflective ability of the barrier. The emissivity, or emittance, refers to how much thermal radiation is given off of the material. The emittance rating will be between 0 and 1. As the emittance rating goes up so does the amount of thermal radiation given. Although related, the second rating is the reflectivity of this insulation. The reflectance rating is also given as a value between 0 and 1 or percentage. These figures, when combined should equal 1 or 100%
While the explanation for the emittance and reflectance ratings is somewhat over-simplified, it is important to pay attention to both numbers. The reflectivity rating should be at least.9, or 90%, while the corresponding emittance rating should be low. These numbers need to be disclosed to the home owner by the manufacturer of the barrier.
While it is quite possible to install a radiant barrier in an attic or crawl space, there are a number of differing methods. The two simplest and most cost effective methods are to secure it to the top side of the roof joists, which support the ceiling, or the bottom of the rafters, which form the slope of the roof. There are particulars, though, to which need to be paid attention.
When installing the radiant barrier on top of the joists, possible condensation during the winter months needs to be taken into account. Most barriers will not allow water vapor to pass through. A simple fix is to make sure the barrier is a perforated one which will allow the barrier to breathe while still being able to reflect the heat away from the ceiling and living quarters below. Another alternative is to verify that the radiant barrier being installed has a substrate which will naturally allow any condensation to pass. The challenge of possible condensation does not apply to the installation of the radiant barrier to the bottom of the rafters. Because of soffit vents along the eaves of the roof or ridge vents, air movement should maintain a condensation free environment.
Radiant barriers used as the sole means of insulation may provide decent results; however, when used in conjunction with existing insulation should enhance the monetary savings of any home owner's monthly utility bill. Due to the region where the home is located, results will vary. Local installers should know which method and what type of radiant barrier will be best for each application.
Many websites provide additional information on the topic of radiant barrier insulation and saving money on monthly utility bills. One such site worth visiting is http://www.utilityimprovements.com.
Dan Elliott independently author's articles for WebDrafter.com, Inc. ( http://www.webdrafter.com ) for search engine marketing. The views and opinions expressed in this article are those solely of the author, and not of any other person, company, or organization. No guarantee or warranty, express or implied, is made regarding the accuracy, fitness, or use of the content herein.

Thursday, 18 March 2010

Insulating your Home

There's lots of talk of how to reduce energy costs and becoming more green by insulating your home.
Three years ago I bought a very old house with minimal insulation, and since then I have been gradually improving its green-ness....but hasn't been without its challenges......amongst which were:
  • How to insulate single-brick width walls in the add-on laundry and office
  • How to insulate the ceiling of the same area without ripping out the roof
  • How to insulate a loft room with no space in it's ceiling
  • Heat loss behind false interior walls
Although most of the information is about insulating the roof space, what many people don't fully appreciate is that at least half of the wasted energy can be through the exterior walls. This is why a detached house is much more expensive to heat than a terraced or apartment. Solid brick and stone walls also lose heat more than cavity walls.

We have an addition to the house which was probably built mid last century, when nobody really knew or cared about heat loss. It's only single story, with a corrugated concrete/asbestos roof which is still in good condition, so I didn't want to touch it. The walls are a mix of single brick skin and some motley weatherboard, with virtually no insulating properties, and it looked a bit of an eyesore outside.

The solution to the walls, which I tackled first as it was a summer job, was to clad the outside in weatherboard (shiplap) with insulation between it and the existing wall behind. I had several options, ranging from inexpensive insulating wool, to the more expensive multi-layer sheets. You get what you pay for, and the more expensive multi-layer sheets I bought have the same insulating properties as a 200mm thickness of wool, but are only about 30mm thick. So rather than increase the wall thickness too much I opted for the sheet material.

Cladding the outside with shiplap was relatively easy....just a bit time consuming. It was a matter of securing vertical wooden battens to the existing wall, taking the opportunity to make sure all were vertical, and then nailling on the shiplap with the insulation sheet underneath. I used treated battens and shiplap, and stainless steel nails, as I wanted it to be low naintenance. It's also important to reduce any air circulation between the insulation and wall and cladding, so I installed a strip of wool insulation to plug the gaps top and bottom.....just enough to still allow some ventilation to avoid any moisture buildup.

The ceiling was even easier, as I installed foam backed plasterboard, with 100mm of insulating foam, secured with 170mm screws through the existing ceiling to the beams above. 

The shiplap and insulation products were bought from Champion Timber as they deliver free of charge.

More to come...........